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If the “soul food” at Govinda’s Natural Foods Buffet not only leaves you pleasantly full but spiritually enlightened, it should come as no surprise. The Hare Krishnas who work there and inhabit the Chaitanya Center in the same building believe that humans absorb feelings through the food they eat. That’s why all of their cooks meditate before they prepare the nightly vegetarian buffet.
And it seems to pay off. Everyone on the moonlit patio seems to be enjoying themselves, but that could be because of the relaxing water fountains and Indian architecture—or it could be the ganga deal.
The deal: Every Thursday night, Govinda’s holds a vegan buffet, filled with a unique salad bar, pasta, curry and assorted Indian delights. If you come with a friend, they’ll give you 50 percent off on the second meal, making it slightly less than $15 for two people. (The regular price is $9.95 per person.)
The food: Although we were getting a great discount, I was a little put off by the fact that the best-looking thing on the buffet—the samosas—cost extra. These Indian dough puffs, filled with peas, potatoes and nuts, would usually come free at an Indian buffet. (Along with some beef, too, but that’s beside the point.)
There were plenty of interesting things on the regular buffet, though. The right half was filled with cold salad ingredients like sprouts, garbanzo beans and homemade dressings, and the left half had a chalky penne pasta, some Indian food and the special of the week: mock fish sticks.
If I had to devise a rule for this buffet, it would probably be to stick to the Indian food and the salad. Everything else, with the exception of the vegetable medley, is a little off. The worst offender had to be the "fish" sticks, which came with a creamy pesto sauce instead of tartar and tasted like rubbery seeds. I admit that I’m not one for fake proteins (being an omnivore), but the outside wasn’t even really crispy, which seems pivotal to the entire operation.
I did really enjoy the hearty vegetable curry, as well as the lentil soup and the vegetable papadums. Papadums—crispy Indian crackers made of lentils and chickpeas—aren’t usually found on the buffet at an Indian restaurant; they're instead replaced by the more fattening naan. I liked to dip the papadums in the assorted dark chutney sauces, juxtaposing the spicy pepper flavor with a fruity jelly.
Bottom line: It’s hard to criticize the food at Govinda’s without badmouthing vegan food in general. And for someone who goes all-out at every meal, I have a heartfelt respect for people who take the planet into consideration before chomping down. That being said, if you don’t sacrifice your tastebuds on a daily basis, this isn’t going to be the best meal of your life. Unless, whether through food or osmosis, you leave spiritually satisfied.
