Cheap Eats: Frankie's

A cheesesteak with Provolone, though we recommend the less P.C. choice: Cheez Whiz. (Credit: Xavier Gallegos/Tucson Citizen)

What was ordered: 9-inch cheesesteak ($6.39), 9-inch Italian hoagie ($6.59), two fountain drinks ($1.50 each) for a total of $17.27 including tax, well within our Cheap Eats goal of a meal for two for less than $20.

Comments: Don't wimp out. Go with the whiz.

Frankie's offers three cheese choices with its cheesesteaks: American, Provolone or Cheez Whiz.

If you're from South Philly, I don't have to tell you this, but for those who aren't, the authentic South Philly version is all about the whiz.

A cheesesteak is not exactly health food to begin with, so go for the gusto. You'll get it at this friendly, bustling sandwich joint. The whiz adds an unmistakable salty and savory flavor, and coalesces the texture and flavors of the beef and bread into a singularly satisfying union that more politically correct versions can't match.

The cheesesteak (we got this one without onions or peppers) featured a generous portion of chopped Angus beef and the aforementioned processed cheese product on an Amoroso's roll. The rolls are shipped in from the 100-year-old bakery in Philadelphia.
The rolls at Subway and other chain joints are cooked fresh every day for a reason. They have to make them fresh daily because they're so inflated with air that by the end of the day, they have the consistency and flavor of those foam peanuts they use to protect your packages during shipping. Frankie's rolls have a gravitas that brings a nicely robust texture and subtle flavor to the beef and whiz.

The Italian hoagie featured Capicolla, Genoa salami, Mortadella, Parma Prosciutto, Sopressata and Provolone with tomato slices, onions, oregano and a surprisingly sophisticated balsamic vinaigrette. As with the cheesesteak, the Amoroso's roll gave a subtle but importantly authentic density in texture and flavor to the well-chosen and generously portioned meats and accompaniments.

Frankie's was originally Daglio's, which was located a few blocks north on Campbell on the other side of the street. The new location features a larger dining room and a much larger parking lot. Frankie's former partner has since opened up a Daglio's at 250 N. Pantano Road.

The atmosphere at Frankie's new digs are clean and comfortable, with a bright yellow paint job in the dining room accented with the logos of Philly's most famous sandwich joints. On all three visits, there was at least one customer in the dining room waxing nostalgic about one or more of the featured establishments.

The homage to Philly also features Wise potato chips and a Colonial-style rear dining room.

Service: Order at the counter and a server will bring your meal to the table.

Bar: no

Bottom line: It's downright opulent as sandwich joints go, and offers you the comically incongruous experience of enjoying your whiz in the refined company of our founding fathers.