Cheap Eats: Pizzeria Vivace

The eggplant, zucchini and roasted red pepper pizza ($14.25). (Credit: Andi Berlin/Special to Metromix)

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What we ordered: One stuffed red pepper ($6.25) and one eggplant, zucchini and roasted red pepper pizza ($14.25) for a total of $20.50, just missing our Cheap Eats goal of $20 for two people.

Comments: It really is tough to get out of Vivace for less than a Benjamin. Whether it’s the simple but classy atmosphere or the first-rate seafood lasagna, I’m not sure. All I know is that I’ve tried, but not succeeded.

The food at the much-heralded, upscale Italian restaurant is just so wonderful that it seems only fit for special occasions. Besides the one time my dad gave me his all-too-elusive credit card, visits have been relegated to Valentine’s and anniversaries.

But last May, as if by fate, executive chef Daniel Scordato opened a bistro version of his famed restaurant: Pizzeria Vivace. The concept is clear, but the execution is not. Scordato’s pizzas are neither Neapolitan nor European. They’re not New York or Chicago either, but a completely original recipe created after numerous attempts in the kitchen.

Food: On first glance, the most interesting thing about a Scordato pizza is that it comes out on a flimsy plastic liner with little holes in the bottom. This elevates it from the plate so that the pizza can breathe. At my visit, I heard the waiter telling another table that they considered outlawing to-go boxes because they make the pizza soggy. (They decided against it, though.)

While the outer crust is fluffy and thick (with little black holes where the crust had popped) the inside of the pizza is thin and flexible. The zucchini, eggplant and roasted red pepper pizza we ordered was actually pretty hard to pick up because the dough was so soft. It sounds strange, but this might have been the best part about the pizza. The bread wasn’t an inhibitor, but only complemented the soft mixture of pesto, cheese and vegetables.

Pizzeria Vivace’s menu is comprised mostly of pizza (almost all of them are between $13 to $15 for a 12-inch), but there are a few appetizers and a small number of desserts. To start off, we tried the stuffed red pepper, which looked more like a casserole than a vegetable dish.

The large pepper came out infused with sliced chunks of chicken meatballs, chopped mushrooms and a chunky and flavorful tomato sauce. The pepper itself was too small for the dish it was in, so the pieces went every which way when you tried to scoop them with a fork. Most of the time you’d get a little bit of pepper, some sauce and maybe a meatball, but it was rare to get everything in one bite. That said, the concoction was still very good—but if you have a choice between that or an extra pizza, go for the gold.

Service: The wait staff is quick and knowledgeable.

Bar: Pizzeria Vivace has a full wine list and a small number of beers on tap.

Bottom line: While the atmosphere is a little more casual, the pizzas showcase the same craft and care present in the more expensive Vivace. The rustic browns and stately decorations make the restaurant fancy enough to visit for a special occasion, but you can also go on a regular Wednesday night.

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